Traditional Patchwork Quilt Pattern and Tutorial (Part 6)

Here is the fifth block from a series of 12. The finished size when the block is sewn into the quilt top is 12 inches square. Enjoy!

You will need:

Two light 4 7/8″ x 4 7/8″ squares

Two dark 4 7/8″ x 4 7/8″ squares

Ten light 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares

Ten dark 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares

Here are my patches.

First make the four-patch blocks. Start with a pair of light and dark 2 1/2″ squares.

Sew them together and then chain sew the other nine pairs in the same way.

Press the seams towards the dark fabric. You should have ten pieces like this.

Arrange the pieces into the five four-patch blocks.

Chain sew them together, taking care to butt the seams against each other to ensure a good match in the centre.

You should now have five four-patch squares.

Next, make the half square triangles. Place the two light 4 7/8″ squares on top of the two dark 4 7/8″ squares.

Draw the diagonal lines.

Sew one quarter of an inch away from both sides of the lines.

Cut along the lines to get four half square triangles.

Open up and press the seams towards the darkest fabric. Bear in mind that you may need to change this direction depending on how bulky the seams will be on the back when the nine patches are sewn to complete the block.

Arrange the squares on a table. Take care to place the colours correctly.

Sew together to make three rows. Alternate the direction in which you press the seams so they will butt up against each other when you sew the rows together.

Traditional Patchwork Quilt Pattern and Tutorial (Part 5)

Here is the fourth block from a series of 12. The finished size when the block is sewn into the quilt top is 12 inches square. Enjoy!

You will need:

One white 4 1/2″ x  4 1/2″ square

Two light 4 7/8″ x 4 7/8″ squares

Four medium 4 7/8″ x 4 7/8″ squares

Two white 4 7/8″ squares

Here are my patches.

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First make the half square triangles. Start with the two white and two medium 4 7/8″ squares. Lay each of the white squares onto a medium square.

Also, use two light and two medium 4 7/8″ squares. Lay each of the light squares onto a medium square.

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Draw the diagonal lines.

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Sew one quarter of an inch away from both sides of the lines.

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Cut along the lines to get 8 half square triangles.

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Open up and press the seams towards the darkest fabric. Bear in mind that you may need to change this direction depending on how bulky the seams will be on the back when the nine patches are sewn to complete the block. Arrange the squares on a table. Take care to place the colours correctly.

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Sew together to make three rows. My top and bottom rows have the seams pressed towards the centre. My middle row has the seams pressed away from the centre. As long as you alternate the rows as you press, the seams will butt up against each other when you sew and match up points.

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Finally, sew the rows together.

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Traditional Patchwork Quilt Pattern and Tutorial (Part 4)

Here is the third block from a series of 12. The finished size when the block is sewn into the quilt top is 12 inches square. Enjoy!

You will need:

One white 4 1/2″ x  4 1/2″ square

One light 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ square

One medium 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ square

Three medium 4 7/8″ squares

Three light  4 7/8″ squares

Here are my patches.

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First make the 6 half square triangles. Start with the three light and three medium 4 7/8″ squares. Lay each of the light squares onto a medium square.

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Draw the diagonal line.

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Sew one quarter of an inch away from both sides of the lines.

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Cut along the lines to get 6 half square triangles.

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Open up and press the seams towards the darkest fabric. Bear in mind that you may need to change this direction depending on how bulky the seams will be on the back when the nine patches are sewn to complete the block.

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Arrange the nine patches on a table.

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Sew together to make three rows. My top and bottom rows have the seams pressed away from the centre. My middle row has the seams pressed towards the centre. As long as you alternate the rows as you press, the seams will butt up against each other when you sew and match up points.

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Finally, sew the rows together.

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Traditional Patchwork Quilt Pattern and Tutorial (Part 3)

Here is the second block from a series of 12. The finished size when the block is sewn into the quilt top is 12 inches square. Enjoy!

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You will need:

Four medium 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles

Four light 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles

Two light 4 7/8″ squares

Two medium 4 7/8″ squares

One light 4 1/2″ square

Here are my patches. You also need to add the light 4 1/2″ square to these. I omitted it in the photo!

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Start with the four pairs of rectangles.

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Chain sew the pairs together.

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Press the seams towards the darkest fabric. You should now have these.

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Now make the half square triangle blocks. Use the 4 7/8″ squares for these.

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Place a light 4 7/8″ square on top of a medium square.

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Draw a line across the diagonal.

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Sew one quarter of an inch away from both sides of the line.

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Cut along the line.

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Open and press the seam towards the darkest fabric.

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You need to make another pair of half square triangles from the other two 4 7/8″ squares. Lay the pieces on the table taking care to place the colours in the correct positions. A light 4 1/2″ square is also needed for the centre.

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Sew the top three pieces together to make a row. Repeat until you have three rows

Finally, sew the three rows together. Remember to press seams as you go and give a final press of the entire block when completed. If the block isn’t quite perfectly square at the stage, don’t panic….it can be squared up later when all of the other blocks are finished. Here is mine.

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Traditional Patchwork Quilt Pattern and Tutorial (Part 2)

Here is the first block from a series of 12. The finished size when the block is sewn into the quilt top is 12 inches square. Enjoy!

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You will need:

One dark 4 1/2″ square

Four white 4 1/2″ squares

Eight dark 2 1/2″ squares

Eight light 2 1/2″ squares

Here are my patches.

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First sew together the middle row of squares.

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Press the seam towards the dark fabric. It is best to press each seam as you go. Don’t use steam as you will probably get shiny ridges on the fabric or maybe even shrink the patches. Don’t wiggle the iron, just press.

You should now have this.

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Now make the four-patch blocks. Use the 2 1/2″ squares for these.

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Chain sew eight pairs of light and dark squares together. Chain sewing is when the next pieces to be sewn together are fed through the machine immediately after the previous ones. This saves a lot of time and thread. When all eight pairs have been stitched, just snip them apart and press the seams towards the dark fabric.

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You should have eight of these.

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Now take two of these pieces and place opposite colours on top of each other.

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Chain sew together. Make sure the middle seams butt up against each other and lie in opposite directions. I find I get better matching when the seam on the top piece is lying towards me. This isn’t always possible.

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Press the seams and you should have four of these.

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Lay them on the table taking care to place the colours correctly.

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Sew the top and bottom rows of three.

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Finally, sew the three rows together. Remember to press seams as you go and give a final press of the entire block when completed. If the block isn’t quite perfectly square at the stage, don’t panic….it can be squared up later when all of the other blocks are finished.

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Part three is here.

Traditional Patchwork Quilt Pattern and Tutorial (Part 1)

Here is the first part of the patchwork tutorial to make this quilt top.

The finished size is approximately 45″ x 59″.

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I have chosen four colours to make my quilt but if you want a more scrappy look just raid your stash!

If you’d like to use four colours:

Fabric requirements:

White 1 2/3 yards (assuming fabric has a usable width of 43″)

Light 2/3 yard

Medium just over 1/2 yard

Dark 1/2 yard

PLUS wadding and backing fabric.

I will be working with White, Robin’s Egg, Teal and Purple from the Moda Bella Solids range.

Cutting instructions:

A “strip” means a strip of the given size cut across the width of fabric.

White

  1. Cut seventeen 2 1/2″ strips. Put six strips to one side for the binding. From another strip cut one rectangle     12 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ and four squares 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″. From each of the remaining ten strips cut three rectangles   12 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ and two squares 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″.
  2. Cut one 4 1/2″ strip. From this cut nine 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares.
  3. Cut one 4 7/8″ strip. From this cut eight 4 7/8″ x 4 7/8″ squares.
  4. Cut one 5 1/4″ strip. From this cut four 5 1/4″ x 5 1/4″ squares.

Light

  1. Cut two 2 1/2″ strips. From one of these cut four rectangles 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ and from the rest of these cut eighteen 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares.
  2. Cut one 4 1/2″ strip. From this cut nine 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares.
  3. Cut one 5 1/4″ strip. From this cut six 5 1/4″ x 5 1/4″ squares.
  4. Cut two 4 7/8″ strips. From these cut thirteen 4 7/8″ x 4 7/8″ squares and CAREFUL two 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares.

Medium

  1. Cut two 2 1/2″ strips. From one of these cut four rectangles 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ and from the rest of these cut eighteen 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares.
  2. Cut two 4 7/8″ strips. From these cut fifteen 4 7/8″ x 4 7/8″ squares.
  3. Cut one 5 1/4″ strip. From this cut four 5 1/4″ x 5 1/4″ squares and CAREFUL three 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares.

Dark

  1. Cut three 2 1/2″ strips. From these cut forty four 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares.
  2. Cut one 5 1/4″ strip. From this cut three 5 1/4″ x 5 1/4″ squares.
  3. Cut one 4 7/8″ strip. From this cut six 4 7/8″ x 4 7/8″ squares and CAREFUL one 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ square.

If you prefer to use scraps, here are the number of patches of each size and colour you will need.

White Light Medium Dark
2 ½” x 2 ½” 24 18 18 44
2 ½” x 4 ½” 0 4 4 0
2 ½” x 12 ½” 31 0 0 0
4 ½” x 4 ½” 9 11 3 1
4 7/8” x 4 7/8” 8 13 15 6
5 ¼” x 5 ¼” 4 6 4 3

PLUS 6 binding strips of 2 ½” across the width of fabric.

I will be using these fabrics

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and here they are cut, labelled and ready to sew.

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Part 2 will be a photo tutorial to make the first block. You can find it here.

The Gift Box Quilt With an Origami Photo Tutorial

Happy Monday everybody!

I’d like to share a few photographs of my latest creation with you. I hope you like it 🙂

I let you have a sneak preview in my Work in Progress Report a few days ago and the quilt is now finished.

I’ve used a Moda charm pack called Rose Parade with white Moda Bella Solids. There were a couple of problems with this design. The first being that when I opened the charm pack I didn’t like it! I love Moda fabrics!! How could I possibly not like this range? Well, I suppose it was because the colours didn’t blend or coordinate at all and I just didn’t know how they could work together. After much deliberation, I decided not to mix them up and divided the fabrics into different piles of “mostly yellow”, “mostly red” and so on.

This turned out to be a good idea because I had 6 piles. Counting them up posed the second problem. The turquoise pile had 8 squares and the red pile had 6 squares (and one of those I really didn’t like because it wouldn’t conform to my “mostly” sorting rule).

Solution?? Discard the extra turquoise one and the one I don’t like for now (I’ll incorporate those into a pillow later) and make two more Gift Box blocks with Moda Bella Solids Christmas Red. Sorted 😀 Now this is breaking my rule of trying to use a charm pack per quilt but the pillow idea will suffice on this occasion.

If you want to see how I made the blocks, just look back through my recent posts for tutorials.

Here are some close ups.

I’ve densely quilted around the gift boxes with gorgeous King Tut 40 weight thread on both the top and in the bobbin. The result is that the boxes have really “popped”. Believe it or not, that was my intention 🙂

Now, I know this block is not really called Gift Box but I just had to rename it because as soon as I rearranged my pinwheels (that is how this block was born) it reminded me of the origami gift boxes I’ve been making since I was a child. I hope you can see the resemblance.

As is the norm with origami, these boxes have no glue or sticky tape, just paper. They are quite sturdy and can be made tiny, a perfect size for holding a chocolate Christmas pudding truffle from you know where…… or you can make them as big as you like.

Here are the very easy instructions with photos in case you want to try to make one 🙂

All folds need to be precise and pressed firmly along the edges. It is best to keep your work flat on a table. If you insist on doing folds up in the air, you’ll probably make a mess and then hear me saying “Put it on the table”. Mine was made really quickly so you can do much better than this, I’m sure!

Start with 6 squares of paper. Mine are made from A4 paper and they must be square. You need to follow the same instructions with all six squares.

Fold in half. It doesn’t matter which way.

Open back up and fold each side into the middle to meet the first fold line.

Take the top right corner and fold it down to meet the left side. It needs to make a sharp point at the top left.

Turn 180 degrees (don’t turn it over) and repeat with the top right corner.

Lift up the big triangle and tuck it under the left side. Push it all the way in. It should use the fold you have just made and lie nice and flat.

Turn 180 degrees and do the same again.

Now, see those two little triangle flaps? Fold them back on the fold line and tuck them inside. Don’t fold them round the back (common mistake). They need to be tucked inside.

So, this is the front.

And this is the back.

Almost there. See the cross on the front? Well, that makes one square face of the box. The top and bottom triangles need to be folded down to meet the next corner along the long side.

Here is one face completed. You need to make sure you have a square with a cross facing outwards.

You need to make 6 pieces like this for one box. Oooh, this photo is quite Etsyesque me thinks 🙂

Now, the next part can be quite tricky until you have made one of these boxes and you can see how it goes together. Just remember, every time you add another piece, there should be no triangles flapping around inside the box and there should be no holes. If you do get a triangle flap inside,  take the offending piece out, turn it 90 degrees and put it back in. Triangles should be tucked on the outside. You’ll get the idea after a couple of tries. Another thing that might help is to look at the direction of the points of the previous piece. If they are pointing towards and away from you, place the next piece so it points to the left and right. Here is how to start in photos. Notice the direction of these two pieces.

Slide it in.

Continue adding pieces, changing their directions. Any triangle flaps on the outside should be tucked in on the outside like you just did (not inside). Here, there is only one piece left to add.

Remember, there should be no triangles flapping inside (I know I’ve said it already) and there should be no way your gift could fall through. If this is the case, rebuild it.

All you need to do now is put a gift inside and use the final piece (see the direction change) to make the lid. Decorate as desired 😀

Et voila! No glue, no sticky tape and a fairly sturdy box 🙂 These are fabulous made from good quality Christmas paper. Squares made from A4 paper will result in a box about 3 x 3 x 3 inches.

So now I hope you can see why my quilt is the Gift Box Quilt. I couldn’t call it anything else.

My next posts are going to give a slow reveal of a new project…..not quilting this time.  I’m going to explore posting by email…..my own personal challenge.

See you soon 😀 Avis x

Star Quilt Photo Tutorial

The Mean Green Sewing Machine has been hard at work again today!

Here is another tutorial which documents the making of my latest quilt top. It is another episode in my quest to use up my birthday charm packs (I can’t buy any more until they are all used up).

I gave a sneak preview of the work in progress a couple of days ago but thought, as I am taking photos of the rest of the process, I might as well share it with everyone else. However, I do realise I’m no expert and there will, of course, be other ways to make this. I just thought I’d share my way 🙂 I hope you like it!

Start by cutting three dark and three light 5 inch strips across the width of fabric. I’ve used Moda Bella Solids Burgundy and Ivory.

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Cut twenty 5 inch squares from each colour.

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Take 2 squares from a charm pack and put them in your stash 🙂 I discarded two plain ones as I was using a lot of plain fabric anyway. You will only need 40 squares from the charm pack (most have 42). I used Fa La la La by Moda. Divide the charm squares into two piles of twenty lights and twenty darks (as best you can).

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Now, the fun begins! The lights are going to be paired with the dark solid squares and the darks are going to be paired with the light solid squares. Take one pair and put them right sides together.

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Sew together all the way around the edge with a one quarter inch seam. All seams will be the same width from now on.

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Make sure you sew all four sides.

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Then cut across both diagonals.

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Press the four pieces open to give four squares of contrasting triangles. It is important to press two with seams towards the light fabric and two towards the dark. I know this is against the rule of always pressing towards the darker fabric but this way helps the seams to nest together when you join them in the next stage of construction. You’ll get lovely matching points which we all love 🙂

Repeat this with all of the other pairs and then keep your groups of four together. You should now have 160 small squares (40 groups of 4).

Here are my dark charms with ivory solid fabric.

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Here are my light charms with burgundy solid fabric.

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Next cut strips for the centre squares. You need to cut 2 strips of each solid colour measuring five and seven eighths inches wide. I know this is a horrible width but I had to do this so I could leave the charm squares at 5 inches. Most rulers show eighths anyway. I hope your ruler does! From these strips cut 10 squares of each colour measuring five and seven eighths across.

Now for the corner squares. Cut 3 strips of each colour across the width of fabric measuring three and one quarter inches. Cut these strips into three and one quarter inch squares. You will need 40 squares of each colour. I managed to get 39 from my 3 strips and used the scraps from earlier to get the 40th.

Now arrange the pieces to make one star block. I used two of my groups of four from earlier and placed matching pairs opposite each other. Take care to put one which was pressed towards the light fabric next to one which was pressed towards the dark fabric (so the seams will nest).

Sew together the triangle pairs first. Remember to nest the seams so the points match up. Sew the pieces together to make three rows. Then sew the rows together.

Complete 20 star blocks. Arrange them into four rows of five. Sew the blocks in each row together. Sew rows one and two together.  Then sew rows three and four together. Finally, sew the two double rows together.

I’ve added two borders using 2 and a half inch strips. The inner border (ivory) needed 5 strips across the width of fabric. The outer border (burgundy) needed six strips. I attached each border in turn to the long sides first.

Here is my finished quilt top. It measures 62 x 51 inches.

Now I just need to cut the binding strips and piece the backing before I quilt it. I don’t have suitable quilting thread for this one so I’m off to order it now 🙂

Two last things…… I hope you can help 🙂

Firstly, I don’t know the name of this block. I thought it was Ohio Star but now realise it isn’t. Does anyone have any ideas? No doubt there will be more than one accepted name for it.

Secondly, this quilt top needs a name! Any suggestions would be very gratefully received. Thank you sew much in advance 🙂

You can find more of my tutorials by clicking here.

Have a lovely week! Avis x

Jelly Roll Strip Quilt

Click here for my Jelly Roll Strip Quilt Tutorial.

Pinwheel Profusion Tutorial


Take 40 x 5″ squares of patterned or mixed plain colours and 40 x 5″ squares

of a plain light colour.

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Pair up each of the 40 light coloured squares with a darker or patterned square.

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With right sides together, sew a quarter inch seam right around the edge. 

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Next cut across diagonally twice to give four quarter square triangles.

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Press seams towards the darker fabric.

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Arrange the four pieces into a pinwheel. Make sure all of your other pinwheels

rotate the same way (unless you want a mixture).

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Put right side over left side and sew pairs together, taking care to “nest” the

seams so they snuggle up next to each other.

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Press the two halves by placing the dark edge at the top and lifting.

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Now you need to sew these two pieces together. Remember to nest the seams.

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It gets quite bulky in the middle so it is a good idea to snip the stitches on the

seam and flatten with your fingers before pressing. It is a little confusing to

know where to snip but just push the new seams with your fingers to the dark

fabric and is becomes clearer where to cut. You should get a little pinwheel on

the back. How cute is that?

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Here is one I made ealier…..

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This one is ready to be squared up to four and a half inches. 

Here are my 40 pinwheels.

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